If you’ve already stocked up on more spot-lightening products that you can fit on your shelves, you know too well: dark spots are a stubborn skincare concern to treat. Dark spots on the skin, also known as hyperpigmentation, can come about for a number of reasons that include pregnancy, hormonal changes, exposure to UV light, and aging. No matter what the reason for them, it may be your constant skincare pursuit to help fade and get rid of them. Dealing with dark spots can be frustrating, but knowing which ingredients the experts themselves rely on to lighten spots can help. Dermatologists swear by this serum to make dark spots disappear. 

Hydroquinone is one of the better-known ingredients for treating dark spots, but it can also cause irritation and redness and compromise your skin barrier. Since the purpose of skincare is to “care” for your skin, even if this powerful ingredient does help lighten spots, it may come with risks that aren’t worth taking. 

“When reducing the appearance of sun freckles or hyperpigmentation for myself or my patients, I prefer a non-hydroquinone, non-retinol formulation that can still deliver visibly noticeable results,” says Natalie M. Curcio, M.D., M.P.H., a Nashville-based dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon and founder of Curcio Dermatology. “My ingredient of choice: Defensins. Defensins are peptides released by neutrophils (immune cells) that stimulate a master stem cell in the skin to make new basal cells in the epidermis (top layer of skin) to grow and then cause a new epidermis to grow.  Therefore, with a new, thicker top layer of skin, people see improvements in fine lines, coarse wrinkles, texture, sagging, pigment, and pore size.”

Defensins can thicken the epidermis of healthy cells, Dr. Curcio explains. “The new, thicker epidermis is better able to ‘mask’ the melanocytes (pigment cells) that are located in the basal layer and the pigment is less visible,” she says. 

“My favorite defensin products (and the only ones commercially available) are DefenAge 24/7 Barrier Repair Cream (face), 3D Radiance Eye Cream, 6-week Perfection Neck Cream, 10 Luxe Hand and Body Cream, and 8-in-1 BioSerum (which is applied over the creams for eyes, face, body, & neck/décolleté),” Dr. Curcio suggests.  “Most people start noticing a difference in 4- 8 weeks (as I did) and others will comment on how much ‘smoother’ and radiant your skin looks. I love that this product line is ‘one-stop shopping’ for all of your anti-aging needs!”

A good offense plan against dark spots is worth having in your pocket – but don’t sleep on prevention tactics that can keep dark spots from appearing in the first place. 

“Vitamin C can be used as a topical antioxidant that helps block free radicals from UV rays and pollutants from causing oxidative damage to the skin,” says Anna Chacon, MD, a dermatologist and writer at MyPsorasisTeam . “ Oxidative damage can lead to wrinkles, fine lines, and a dull complexion. Vitamin C also inhibits enzymatic processes that produce melanin in the skin. When melanin is inhabited, it can help to reduce dark coloration of the skin or dark spots. With vitamin C, it only targets problem pigmentation areas and not the rest of your skin. It’s best to be massage onto cleansed skin at morning before applying sun screen.”

Two products that Dr. Chacon recommends are dermatologist favorites: SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic.

“It’s a well-known Vitamin C serum and standout amongst topical vitamin C serums because it contains 15% L-ascorbic acid, a potent dose of vitamin C, along with nourishing vitamin E and ferulic acid for an antioxidant triple threat,” Dr. Chacon says. “Another product is Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster, a lightweight serum contains 15% ascorbic acid, which is sufficient enough to result in a noticeable difference over time. It’s also formulated to give you the option to mix it into a hydrating moisturizer and layer under your favorite broad-spectrum SPF.”

Remember to start at the lower concentration, around 5% if pigmentation issues are mild or you have dry or sensitive skin because vitamin C products can be irritating at higher concentrations, Dr. Chacon cautions. “If issues are more moderate to severe or if you’ve been using vitamin C products without any sensitivity problems, one can go up to 20%,” Dr. Chacon says. “But it’s important to remember that the effects plateau after 20%, so there’s no reason to pay more for anything above that concentration. It’s also important to be aware of what Vitamin C form to use. For oilier skin, sodium ascorbyl phosphate is best because it’s water-soluble, meaning it will more likely be used in lighter, water-based products. For mature and dry skin, ascorbyl palmitate is best because it’s lipid-soluble, meaning you’re more likely to see it in vitamin C oils or other moisturizing formulas.”

Dark spots can be frustrating, but they don’t need to become a skincare obsession. Start by incorporating products with effective ingredients into your regimen and consider consulting with your dermatologist to see if additional treatments, like lasers, can help you achieve your skincare goals. 

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Lisa Fogarty is a lifestyle writer and reporter based in New York who covers health, wellness, relationships, sex, beauty, and parenting.