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Enzymes are having a moment in skincare - but what do they do?

If you were paying attention in your biology lessons at school you'll remember that enzymes cropped up a lot. Although we may be familiar with the term in an anatomical sense, we might not be used to hearing them referenced in our skincare. But, enzymes are certainly having a moment in the beauty industry right now as the gate keeper of a smoother visage.

One expert that has seen a huge surge of interest around skincare enzymes is advanced facial aesthetics clinician Dr Nina Bal. “During the pandemic we saw a huge increase in skincare education and uptake,” she explains. “The consumer was more engaged in what they were using, when they were using it and tailoring their skincare in response to wanting 'healthier' skin and to potentially wear less make-up as a result. As a consequence, many reached for very active acids such as AHA/BHAs as well as high strength retinoids/retinols. Although the intention was great, as a result what I was finding was that clients had damaged and inflamed their skin and skin barrier by simply using too strong actives. This is where enzymes come into play – a softer, gentler introduction into active skincare exfoliation. A product, if the correct one is selected for your skin type, that you can use more frequently to address skin dullness, brighten your complexion, smooth textural issues which all allow for better penetration of other skincare products as well as a smoother base for make-up.” Who doesn't want that?

Playing a vital role in cell metabolism, enzymes are proteins, which are chains of amino acids, that regulate the rate of a chemical reaction in a cell without altering it in the process. “They are a catalyst product,” Dr Bal begins. “This means that they encourage skin cell renewal and cell turnover. Similar to the way a person may take digestive enzymes to assist with the breakdown of food, applying enzymes topically has a similar chemical pathway.”

As intimidating and clinical as they sound, enzymes can take on many forms, even deriving from fruit and vegetables. In simple terms, by adding an enzyme into your skincare you're effectively boosting its efficiency by making it more active.

A bit of a skincare show-off, enzymes main star power comes from its ability to exfoliate like no other. By breaking down keratin protein in the uppermost layer of the skin, we're left with softer-than-soft skin without compromising our skin barrier, eradicating the need for abrasive scrubs. “By removing the dead skin cells from the epidermis it's also taking away light congestion from the skin caused by daily pollutants leading to smoother and clearer skin,” Dr Bal says. “Furthermore, it can be used before an event for skin brightening purposes and allows for better skin penetration of other skincare nutrients into the deeper layers of the skin.”

While the results sound impressive, enzymes are far from aggressive in their deliverance. Gentle enough for those with sensitive skin or rosacea, they also play nicely with other ingredients so you don't need a regime overhaul to use them. Proven to have some DNA repair capabilities, enzymes are most likely found in some anti-ageing products as they can facilitate a greater degree of cell membrane signalling which contributes to skin repair.

Relatively low maintenance, enzymes are often found in some of our favourite products like face masks rather than as a stand-alone ingredient such as hyaluronic acid. “I personally use an enzyme product in my weekly routine,” Dr Bal tells us. “As I have rosacea I need to be very carefully with disrupting my skin barrier and skin pH so I use a fruit-based enzyme mask which leaves my skin glowing and also smells delicious!”

Not sure where to start? Dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting, founder of Dr Sam’s Skincare suggests looking for specific fruit or vegetable ingredients known for their enzyme properties. “Products that contain an extract of pineapple called bromelain are enzyme-rich, as are those from papaya, which contain papain,” she says. Look out for pumpkin, pineapple or papaya masks (we love Sisley's new Exfoliating Enzyme Mask for a skin treat) that will give you more bang for your buck as enzymes work best when left on the skin for a short amount of time.